Burgundy will steal your heart. If you are ready to be carried away by picturesque villages from other centuries and endless landscapes of vineyards, as well as dive into the art of gastronomy and fine wine, then pack your bags, book a flight, and let the butterflies start flying in your stomach.
How to get to Burgundy?
Getting to Burgundy is actually quite easy – first choose a direct airBaltic flight from Riga to Paris, and then either rent a car in Charles de Gaulle airport for a scenic three-hour drive or take the fast TGV train from Paris Gare de Lyon station. In terms of airlines, I particularly prefer airBaltic flights as they are one of the most punctual airlines in the world. Of course, we all need to face the fact that post-covid era traveling is booming almost like never before, so strikes, supply issues, and many other factors may even cause delays for the most punctual ones.
I always plan around 2.5 hours after landing to get to Paris Gare de Lyon station. After taking the train from the airport to the city, I prefer walking to Gare de Lyon since it’s a great way to stretch my legs and unwind, and even take the opportunity to have a glimpse at the beautiful arrondissements of Paris.
Beaune is not only the Capital of Burgundy Wines but also an absolutely charming town, so after switching TGV to the regional train in Dijon, get off at Beaune station.
Reaching Burgundy from Charles de Gaulle airport
By car:
- 3 hour drive
By train:
- Take a direct train from Charles de Gaulle airport to Paris city center (get off at Châtelet station)
- Take an hour’s walk to Gare de Lyon (or take 1 stop with the metro)
- TGV train from Gare de Lyon to Dijon
- Regional train from Dijon to Beaune
In the SNCF app you can book a connection ticket from Paris Gare de Lyon to Beaune
Where to stay?
If you are looking for an absolute gem in the region, then the five-room boutique hotel La Maison de Pommard is a must-do. This 18th century winemaker’s house opened in 2021, and went through 7 years of renovation to be reshaped by contemporary architecture into a boutique hotel. Since opening, it attracts design lovers, wine lovers, and winemakers, who love an overnight stay to taste their wines together with the hotel guests and hosts. Located in central Pommard, a picturesque village surrounded by vineyards, the establishment is an oasis for those looking for a place where contemporary design meets historic details like old beams and terracotta floor tiles. Each room is individually designed and furnished with original furniture, which a large part is designed by the architect of the house, Emanuele Salini.
You’re greeted there almost like you’re coming home and absolute tranquillity surrounds you instantly. The pool is surrounded by the garden, where the owner, Isabelle de Montille, loves to garden herself. Order a bottle of grower champagne or Burgundy (think of producers like Domaine de Montille, Roulot, Hubert Lamy, Vincent Dauvissat, Comte Lafon) and enjoy the time to slow down. At least a two night stay is a must to fully enjoy everything that this special place provides.
Prices for a room start at 195 EUR, with an organic breakfast included in the price
What to see?
The true beauty of Burgundy can be discovered in the best way by walking and biking. Beautiful Voie des Vignes bike road leads through Burgundy vineyards all the way from Dijon to Santenay, passing through villages whose names make any wine lovers heart tremble – Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet. While biking or walking you can peacefully observe the most prestigious vineyards in the world, including iconic Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Chevalier-Montrachet, to which one goes almost as if on a pilgrimage. Take your time as there is nowhere to rush, except maybe to have lunch since many restaurants are only open for lunch between midday to 2 pm. Apart from that, Burgundy is really the place where time slows down – people working in vineyards, horses plowing the soil, the villagers always greeting everyone with a lively ‘Bonjour’, creating a sense of art de vivre almost flying in the air that everyone can breathe in and join. I suggest renting a bike (choose e-bike as the slopes are quite steep) at Active Tours in Beaune and spend a day or two exploring the area. The Beaune – Santenay bike route is around 20 km and is the best way to see Grand Crus vineyards, where the best white wine in the world is made. For the next day, visit Côte de Nuits also by bike, where the red grape Pinot Noir dominates and you will pass by the iconic Clos de Vougeot castle. No matter which direction you choose to take, it is very easy to navigate by following the green signs that mark the bicycle route. So you don’t need to constantly look at a map, but instead enjoy the breathtaking landscape.
Beaune is so charming, that it stays in travelers hearts forever. Start exploring the town from Parc de la Bouzaize, a peaceful oasis just minutes away from the city’s historical center. Locals love to hang out there with family and a have a picnic on the grass, while observing the birds in the mini lake. It’s a perfect place to connect with nature and stroll in the shade on a hot day.
The historical center is a circle, so it is impossible to get lost there, but even if you do – enjoy it. You’ll discover the quiet streets whose walls are whispering a long history of the town’s secrets and public gardens with fountains and narrow passages where sculptures are built in the walls of houses. The main crowd always concentrates around the iconic l’Hôtel-Dieu-Hospices de Beaune building, but lots of travelers don’t realize that you can also stroll around the historical center by old ramparts to see the city from above – it’s always so calm and peaceful there. The Collégiale Notre-Dame church with gothic elements doesn’t dominate, but perfectly compliments Beaune’s ancient charm, and at night its facade is illuminated by light installations that make it come alive.
Make sure to stop at boulangerie Marie Boucherot, where the owner prepares exceptional bread, from slow-fermented sourdough to pastries (think freshly baked pain au chocolat). It’s no wonder that often by midday the shelves are almost empty as there is a constant queue, but don’t hesitate to chat with the locals while standing there as you’ll get the best suggestions on where to get the best delicacies. Almost every French person has their own favorite epicerie shop, butcher, and market to visit, as fresh, local food is almost a religion and Burgundy is no exception.
The Saturday market in Beaune is the highlight of the week and it can get quite busy in the summer. Again, a good idea would be to ask a local which stand you can get the best Bresse chicken, the most delicious cheese, and the most aromatic sausages, otherwise, you can easily get lost in the bustling market rows.
A more quiet market can be found in the Meursault village on Fridays, where I love to stop for the Comte cheese and fresh vegetables. Also, the village itself is a must-have for a visit to the stunning Hotel the Ville building with ancient, colorful roof tiles and a grand fountain next to it. It’s where the locals and travelers love to sit down, listen to the meditative sound of splashing water, and recall scenes from the classical French movie La Grande Vadrouille, as part of the film was shot here. Don’t miss the fromagerie La Petite Vadrouille where the owner will suggest the best local delicacies, from cheese to spices to the best dark chocolate.
Where to eat?
When it comes to the restaurant scene, you’ll be spoiled in Burgundy. It is almost impossible to find anywhere else where so many restaurants have one of the best wine lists in the world, and the fact that many restaurant owners have historical allocations from the most iconic winemakers, makes the price for those sought after wines more accessible than in any other part of the world. If you wish, you can easily find Michelin star restaurants in the region, but here are some suggestions if you’re looking for a more easy-going ambiance, some gems that will make your trip more fulfilled (just don’t forget to make reservations in advance, as they quickly become booked):
Maison du Colombier in Beaune – the most upscale wine list and bustling ambiance, almost no distance from table to table, so you almost feel you are in a big gathering of friends and family. The restaurant is located in a 16th century building and open terrace next to it is the spot to meet before and after dinner for drinks under the sky.
Auprès du Clocher in Pommard – David, Chef Remi, and Anna are the three people you will meet every time you l enter this destination restaurant. They have a set menu, but it’s worth spoiling yourself and taking the 5 course journey to dive into the exploration of taste nuances. The wine list is excellent and also natural wine lovers will find many gems here.
Le Soufflot in Meursault – the owners Charles et Jérémy and friendly staff make sure that each guest is treated specially and not get lost in the countless pages of the restaurant’s wine list. The ambience is casual, but thanks to the open kitchen and crowd who loves to hang out here, including winemakers, each time you feel like you’re visiting good friends. The food is tasty, made from local ingredients, and changes seasonally.
La Cabane in Chassagne-Montrachet – as the bicycle road passes by, it is hard to imagine a more perfect place to stop for lunch in the summertime. Grilled trout and other grilled dishes is La Cabane’s specialty.
La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-Georges – don’t look for a better place for lunch or dinner in Côte de Nuits than this restaurant, where Chef Thomas prepares regional specialties with a modern twist.
La Ferme de la Ruchotte – Fred, the manager and the chef of this family-owned restaurant based on a farm, is unmistakable as his tattooed arms tell stories about his passion for food and metal music. He looks like a Metallica band member, but he takes cooking with the same perfection as guitar playing, meaning that almost all supplies come only from the family’s farm and it’s hard to find a better place to taste French home cooking at a really upscale level. Open only for lunch, don’t be surprised if you feel you’re in the middle of nowhere while driving there. The destination is absolutely worth it!
The Burgundy essence is a taste of life. You taste with your eyes while observing everyday life, you taste with your fingertips while touching the old walls of clos that surrounds the vineyards, and you taste with your heart when you drink the Burgundy from your glass.
I’m grateful to AirBaltic for the collaboration in making this material.